Madrid

Thursday. September 13. 

The Seville train station was busy. My train was scheduled to leave the “Santa Justa” at ten a.m. so there was still some commuter action going on. Train travel must be popular in Spain. I rode the train in Italy, so I didn’t find the train station too alien or confusing. I knew the drill better. Taking the train is great. Why can’t the airlines be more like this?  

  A stressed out Asian man came up to me and asked, “Where is the train to Madrid?” He must be very confused if he’s asking me. I did find it humorous. I did know the way to the Madrid train and pointed. Maybe he knew I would speak English.

I would take the Alvia Train from Seville to Madrid. We’d leave at 9:50 a.m. and arrive at Madrid’s Puerta de Atocha at 12:36 p.m.  

  I made the call to confirm the Madrid Tapas tour. My travel agent said, “Don’t miss this one.” Classical music played in the railroad car while we waited. It’s Sarabande!     

It was a hazy overcast day. We passed by the Guadala River. There were some egrets near the water.   

The wide open spaces reminded me again of the Central Valley in California. The scenery looked more desolate. We were away from road traffic. The dried grass made the hills golden. It was a familiar sight for me. There were large modern wind mills and fans, just like in the Central Valley.   

We passed through Castille and Toledo. This was part of La Mancha. Real Don Quixote territory. The geography had large mesas and plateaus. It’s a wild, uninhabited landscape.

We arrived on time. I can’t check in to the hotel until two o’clock. The Prado was near the train station. If I could store my luggage and go over there, I could save myself a trip across half the city.  

I noticed an urban edge right away. People in the train station were more gruff. They looked annoyed at being asked for directions. OK. I get it. It’s a big city thing. The tourist season was drawing to an end. “Where’s baggage check?”  

There was a garden area with large palm trees that almost reached the ceiling of the station. It was impressive for a train station. The “Consignia” locker storage area was tucked away behind the garden area near the Burger King. That was a memorable landmark. 

My bag had to be x-rayed before I could enter the storage area. I realized again that security was no joke here. The Atocha station was close to where bombs had destroyed commuter trains. The threat of terrorism is real here.    

My plan to store the luggage was brilliant. Well, it would be brilliant if I could figure out how the lockers work. I tried to copy other passengers. No luck. People had their big city game face on here. No one speaks English, or will admit it.  

An Australian woman with her mother says I can use their locker. “We’re leaving anyway.” She looks at my token. I have a five dollar token. I’ve been trying to put my bag in a three dollar locker. I just had to find the nearby five dollar lockers.   

I offered to help with their luggage. The Australian woman is still smiling, but she says no. She’ll handle it. I thought it odd, but quickly deferred. Minutes later it dawned on me. This woman was an experienced traveler. Don’t ever let your bags out of your hands. My whole helpless traveler act could be a ruse. Don’t trust anyone with your luggage! 

The train station was more like an airport. There was a large shopping area and numerous food places. I went upstairs. A van with about six Polizia pulled up to the terminal. They got out slowly and  put on safety vests. It looked like they were starting a shift. They look serious as they strap equipment on. They’ve got their game faces on. I won’t ask them for directions. One got Uzis out of the van and passed them around. The plastic guns look like toys, but they’re not. It makes them look more sinister to me.  

I thought of taking a cab to The Prado, but decided to check out a little of Madrid on the way and started walking on the Paseo de Prado. I got sucked right into the flow of traffic. There was a carousel on one street corner. It added a little carnival atmosphere to the urban hustle.

There were news stands and sidewalk vendors. Apparently Oscar Mayer hot dogs are big in Madrid. It was tempting, but I wanted to save stomach room for better things.   

Turned right on the Paseo de Prado. It seemed to be the entrance to an older part of the city. The Paseo was more like a boulevard. Most of the street was a pedestrian walkway. It was a busy street, but there were green areas on both sides of the street with nice hedges that muffled traffic sounds.    

I passed the Royal Botanical Garden of Madrid. Large statues honored Murillo, Velázquez and Goya. Older buildings surrounded the entrance plaza to The Prado.   

There was a large area for ticket buyers to wait in. Stanchions were set up, but the hordes of summer were gone. There wasn’t much of a line for tickets. When I bought my ticket I asked for a guide book. The guy behind the glassed counter pulled out what looked like a phone book. “You mean like this?” Uh... no! He’d been through this before. “You can get a smaller one inside.”  

More excellent advice from Rick Steves: When you visit the big museums make sure you see what you really want to see first. Time can run out fast! My top priority was Bosch, especially The Garden of Earthly Delights.

The Prado was more like The Louvre than I had expected. The layout was similar. It was also overwhelming. How much time could I spend in here? I had to compare it to the Art Institute in Chicago. 

Signs led to The Bosch Room. I really wanted to get a look at The Garden of Earthly Delights in the flesh. It was a rare look at the reverse side of the painting. The Third Day of Creation can be seen when the “door” is closed. There are other Bosch paintings in the room, including the Table of the Seven Deadly Sins.

   

I tried to take my time. I knew it was impossible to see everything, but I still had a tendency to rush from masterpiece to masterpiece. You can’t see all of a big museum in part of a day.

A kid sat on one of the convenient benches in a gallery. I’ll guess he was twelve. He was concentrating on a video game he was playing on his phone. It just didn’t seem right. I know kids get dragged along to places they don’t want to be, but... Sometimes I think we’re doomed.  

I lingered at Las Meninas by Velázquez. “Las Meninas is the focal point around which the Prado’s entire collection revolves.” Some claim it’s the greatest painting ever.

The Self Portrait by Durer looked familiar. There were masterpieces by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto, El Greco, Rubens. The Prado was another unbelievable museum experience.   

I retrieved the luggage and took a taxi from the bus station. Got a look at the city on the ride. We passed Catalonia Square. There was a large farmer’s market set up. Hundreds of pigeons flew around the square. My hotel was near the Opera House. They really love Burger King here.    

I would be staying at the Select Sol on Carrer C/de Las Fuentes. The hotel had a modern exterior and lobby. I unpacked a bit, but I wanted to get out and see this city. 

The tourist hustle here is like what I saw in Rome, but not as obnoxious. There are packs of guys selling the toys that light up and shoot up into the sky. Just like In Rome. I went to the Plaza Mayor. A band of buskers played the Theme from the Godfather.   

A big hustle here is the rosemary sprig scam. An old gypsy woman will jam the plant into the hands of an unsuspecting female. Certainly the male of the couple will contribute something! It must have worked often over the centuries. It doesn’t seem to be working very well today.

My travel agent Leatta had said that The Madrid Tapas Adventure produced more rave reviews than any other tour Travel Central books. The tour would meet in the Plaza de la Villa. This is very close to my hotel, as the crow flies. I go up a main street, the Calle Mayor. There was an area with several shops selling stamps and coins. It’s a numismatic shopping area. I took a short look in the window, but moved on. I want to find the tour.  

I find the Plaza de la Villa. It’s easy to spot the tour group. They’re gathered around the meeting point: “the statue in the middle of the square.” The tour looks like a friendly, interesting crew. Most of them are teachers. There are about a dozen of us.  

The Madrid Tapas Adventure is presented by “Urban Adventures.” Daniella is our tour guide. She’s young, energetic and attractive. While we wait for the usual latecomers she tells us that the plaza itself is considered a historical monument. It was the center of Madrid and is now the home of Madrid’s City Council.

We’re gathered around the statue of Don Alvaro de Bazan. The oldest building is the Lujanes House and Tower. It was built in the Fifteenth Century in Gothic-Mudejar style. It’s now the office of the Academy of the Moral and Political Sciences. Whatever that is.   

To the south is Cisnero’s House. It’s a 16th Century Plateresque palace.

  The Casa de la Villa was built in the 17th Century. The Baroque building was the home of the Madrid City Council, the Ayuntamiento  until 2008. We start the tour at 7 p.m. on a Thursday night. 

Daniella is obviously a veteran tour guide. She grew up in France, but she’s Uruguayan. She is a vegetarian cook and talked later about taking Flamenco dancing lessons.

Daniella explains that Madrid gets fresh seafood. Over the years frying has become the most popular way to cook seafood. “It controls the smell.” 

“Tapas are small. They are what you would call appetizers, but you won’t starve.” In the history of the tour, only one person has said they didn’t get enough to eat. Someone wisecracks: “Was it a woman?” Daniella admits that yes, it was.  

She points out The Monastery of Corpus Christi. This is where cloistered nuns sell baked goods, the famous “nun cookies.” It’s a recipe that goes back to Roman times. Another order of nuns sell “Dulces,” which are more like candy. The nuns are not supposed to have any contact with family members. This tradition may be loosening up.  Daniella says she thinks she saw one visiting with family members on a Sunday.  

Daniella points out Posada de la Ville. It’s a restaurant that opened in 1642! It’s famous for local fare and its stew: cocido. 

The first stop on the tour will be at The Mercado de San Miguel. It looks like a train station. The entrance is a large gate of wrought iron and glass. It opened in 1916. There are about thirty food stands in the covered market.   

Being with a tour guide made it much easier for us. Daniella was recognized and catered to by those behind the counters. At each stand she goes up and pays. Then glasses of wine are passed out. The first tapas are olives on a toothpick with anchovies wrapped around them. The second round is grilled salted cod. We’re starting out with two of my favorite foods! There is a pile of potato chips behind the glass counter. With apologies to American potato chips, this is one beautiful pile of potato chips.   

An old lady stood in the middle of our group. She had her spot and she wasn’t going to move although it was obvious she was making it harder for us to stick together.  If she would just move over a little it would work out for us better at the counter, but she’s been here way longer than we have. She finally walked away so we could fill in.   

Daniella says to watch out. Sometimes people think our food is put out as samples. They will try to snatch a “sample.” It’s early so it’s not as crowded or “competitive,” but space is still at a premium. Me and a teacher from Indiana agree to guard the left flank.

Each food stand has a specialty. Madrid is famous for sliced ham, Jambones. There’s great pride in the artistry of slicing the ham correctly. Proper slicing enhances the flavor.  

There is a dark side. Jewish people had been tolerated for years by the Muslims, but they were persecuted by the Christians in the early years after the Reconquista. There was one big test. Would they eat pork? Would they eat sliced ham? If they refused there were grave consequences.  

We stopped at a place that specialized in cheese. Later in the tour one of the group had asked what cheese we had at the Mercado. Daniella made sure we got an email listing the cheeses. We tasted goat cheese from Zarza de Granadilla, Smoked cheese from San Simon, Tetilla cheese from Gallicia and “mixed” (cow and sheep) Tranchon from Aragon. Sending the list was a great touch.

It’s food heaven, but we do have to move on. We walk by the oldest restaurant in the world. Restaurante Sobrina de Botin. Their specialty is suckling pig. They are also known for oxtail dishes. Daniella says it’s very hard to get a reservation. I had to wonder what a twenty dollar Euro note would do. 

Daniella talks about Rita Hayworth. The native of Seville returned to film the bull fighting epic Blood and Sand with Tyrone Power. Spain fell in love with the fiery redhead. There are still pictures of her in many Spanish restaurants and cafes.  

Our next stop had the neon ambience of a White Castle, but the food was much more rewarding. La Campana serves Bocadillos de Calamaros, a deep fried calamari sandwich on a white sourdough style bun. We also got a special sangria drink with lemon. I’m a big calamari fan, and it was certainly among the best I’ve ever had. Daniella warned us that there’s usually a line, especially because of the price. 3.50 Euro for a generous helping of calamari!  

We walk through an area that is a downtown shopping district. Daniella has us stop in front of a large department store window. Mannequins are dressed in Flamenco dresses. A dress can cost five thousand Euro! She says they can be rented for six hundred Euro.

The Plaza Mayor is the center of Madrid. Daniella explains that most of the apartments that surround the plaza are now B&Bs. The units are old and most of them “need repair.” There is no air conditioning, which is a big drawback here, but units on the Plaza are still among the most expensive real estate in Madrid. One unit here can still sell for one million Euro.  

One of the group asks about taxes. “I’ve heard the tax rate is very high.” Daniella admits, “I’m still learning about it. It depends on how much you make and how much you spend.” She says the rates are high, but there is a certain trade off, especially with guaranteed health care.  

The wine in Spain doesn’t have the kick it does in the U.S. The alcohol content is lower, and it doesn’t have as much chemicals or sugar. By this time some of us are getting pretty buzzed anyway.

We go through an arched passageway out of the plaza. Chocolateria San Gines had been a full menu restaurant that catered to the theater crowd from the nearby Teatro Joy Eslava. It became famous for its hot chocolate and churros. The management decided to serve only the chocolate drink and churros, but it would stay open twenty four hours a day. Daniella said it has been open all day and night since 1894! The Teatro Eslava is now a dance club. People still stop for late night churros. 

It was a short walk to Restaurant e Casa Labra. The specialty here is croquetas de bacalao. It’s deep fried pastry filled with cod! 1.50 Euro! Cod donuts! It goes back to 1860 and “still has the original decor.”

The place looks like it has some history. The Spanish Socialist Worker’s Party was founded here. We sat at outdoor tables with tall bar stools. The building and front of the restaurant are slightly curved. Cava is a big drink here. It’s Spanish sparkling wine.  

We were headed to our last stop. Everyone is feeling pretty good. There was a shop with the windows still lit up. Are those vestments in the windows? It was across a narrow street that looked like an alley. I wasn’t only one in the group that was curious about this place. Others insisted we stop and take a look in the window. 

Santaffufina sells religious supplies. There were chalices, Bibles and vestments. It looked like you could find anything Catholic. I wondered what the deal was. Could I just walk in and buy robes and a collar? Did they check for IDs?       

In true tour guide fashion, Daniella asked people when they will be leaving. “It’s too bad. You’ll be missing the Rastro.” The biggest flea market in Europe is held every Sunday and on public holidays. 

We’re in the neighborhood that used to be the meat market of Madrid. When carcasses were dragged on the stone streets from the slaughterhouse to the tannery, they left a trail of blood. Rastro means “the trail.”    

Daniella warns that the Rastra is a “magnet for pickpockets.” We’re headed to the Puerta de Sol. It will be crowded and we should be careful there too.

We make our last food and drink stop at Casa de las Torrijas. It has a friendly interior and looks like a local gathering place. Daniella says it hasn’t changed much since 1907. It has most of the same furnishings. It was getting late, but the owners were friendly. Torrijas are fried bread. “Like French toast.” This was more of a dessert place. 

Daniella tells us certain streets in Madrid used to specialize in selling a certain product. This isn’t as true anymore, but in old Madrid you went to Bird Street to buy paintings or art supplies. It was “the painter street.” There was a street that sold magazines, cards and stickers. The Calle de Carnero and the Calle de Carlos Arniches drew people looking to buy or trade used books. 

Our last stop is the Puerta de Sol. The “Gate of the Sun.” It was once one of the gates of the city wall. The main Spanish roads ended here. It’s the center of the city now. The large plaza is surrounded by tall buildings. Most of them look like hotels with porches. This is tourist central. Street artists and buskers entertain the crowds of tourists that congregate here. It reminds me of Fisherman’s Wharf during prime time on a holiday weekend. There’s a New Year’s Eve atmosphere here.  

A group of eight young black guys danced to a very loud boom box. They jumped around to Michael Jackson’s “Beat It.” Have to admit they were good and they were drawing a crowd. Weird Al Yankivich’s version, “Eat It” could have been the theme song for tonight. 

We passed the statue of The Bear and the Honey Tree. El Oso y El Madroño. The twenty ton statue of a bear eating pomegranates is a depiction of the heraldic symbol of Madrid. 

A group of scantily clad young women danced around the Puerta. They wore glittering paper crowns and tee shirts that read: “I Love Madrid.” It was instant New Year’s Eve. There was much cleavage and distraction. They posed for photo ops for tips. I had to wonder how much they made in a night. Maybe I’m a bit paranoid, but they also provided a perfect distraction for pickpockets. They were probably gypsies. 

  The refugee entrepreneurs were constantly hustling their little top toy that shot up into the sky. They also sold trinkets and jewelry. Everybody seemed to have a hustle. 

The Puerta del Sol is where the big New Year’s Eve celebration is held. Madrinos  gather for the traditional midnight countdown. The Clock of the Puerta del Sol tolls at midnight on New Year’s Eve. It’s considered good luck to eat twelve grapes during the last minute of the year.  

Daniella makes sure we see a plaque on the ground. Some people crowd around it. We have to wait a few minutes for our chance to really see it.   

It’s called the center of Spain. It’s not geographically the center, but it’s considered a “good luck spot.” If you stand on it you will get back to Madrid. It’s a tradition like tossing a coin into the Trevi fountain in Rome.  

The Michael Jackson guys are still performing. They appear to be the most popular act on the Puerta tonight. A woman in the tour says I should be dancing with them. We have had a lot of wine. I say that, “There was a time,” but I know I never could have matched their back flips and somersaults.

    

I make sure to get directions towards the hotel, but when I leave the group I head in the opposite direction and walk into the Plaza crowds. “I have to get to work!” I still want to walk around and check out the tourist and hustle buzz. Just like home. The Puerta does remind me of Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39.  

When I get back to the hotel Michael Jackson’s “Beat It” is playing in the lobby! Is it a weird coincidence, or do they just love this song here?  

Friday. September 14. 

The hotel had a great buffet breakfast! The best on the whole trip. I had to take a picture of it. It was a great start to a long day. The staff checked tickets to make sure only guests were at the buffet. Most hotels didn’t bother. The staff here were used to people trying to crash.

Seeing the Royal Palace wasn’t high on my list. It wasn’t a “must.” It was early and the Palace wasn’t open yet. A line was forming, but I just didn’t feel like standing in line yet, so I walked to the nearby Alumenda Cathedral and sat on the steps. It was a great view of the Manzanares River and the Royal Palace. I could see into the large entrance courtyard to the Palace. 

The line was getting longer. It wasn’t going to get any shorter. I got in line behind a group of five teenagers. They spoke French. I could understand enough to figure out that they were arguing over what to do next. They were pretty loud, and there was much phone waving. They were obnoxious enough that I considered moving to the back of the line to get away from them. 

The line was moving slow. A middle aged Spanish man played an accordion. He had a heavy build and he wore what I assume was traditional dress. This was a great spot for busking. He had a captive audience, but the guy was good. I usually did give the accordion players something. CDs were available!   

It seemed like a long wait. There was a delay right at the door, but I finally got in. This was it: The Palacio Real. The Royal Palace. It hadn’t been a big priority for me, but it was exciting. I realized it should be a “must.” I entered the largest palace in “Western Europe.” It was another real eye opener. 

A sign warned us that this is a royal residence. No photos would be allowed inside the royal family’s private rooms. The royal family is rarely there, but it is still the “official residence.” The palace is used for state ceremonies. Were they afraid we were going to turn a corner and run into a member of the royal family standing there in their underwear?

In its early history Madrid was just considered a fortress to protect Toledo from the Reconquista. Madrid’s purpose was to defend Toledo. 

The original palace burned down! In 1734 Phillip V ordered the construction of a new palace. The new palace was inspired by sketches by Bernini of the Louvre. There are three thousand rooms. Construction on thIs palace started in 1738. It was finished in 1755.   

   

I don’t feel comfortable inside a palace. There’s something about monarchy that makes me nervous. Maybe it’s an American thing. This was a real palace, not a fairy tale make believe amusement park palace.   

I had been to a palace before. On the 2016 tour I had visited Versailles and the Vatican. I had just been to Dublin Castle which was grand, but this palace was different. The British Empire certainly had its moments, but this palace was built with the gold and riches of Spain’s American colonies. El Dorado. This Palace had the might, grandeur and majesty of the Spanish Empire behind it. It was a different kind of excess.  

 

Every palace has a dark side. It’s so grand that maybe I should forget about wondering how much gold and blood was put into it being built. Why be so judgemental? It was a different time. A different world. Would I hesitate to join in colonial imperialism and genocide if I was the one profitting?

The inner courtyard is all indoors. This is where carriages let people off to enter the palace. On the ground floor there is a statue of Charles III in a Roman toga. There are four cartouches “in the corners.” They represent water, earth, air and fire.

The Main Staircase was built to impress. It was built by Sabatini and it’s purpose was to blow visitors away. The Grand staircase is made from a single piece of San Augustin marble! The fresco on ceiling was done by Corrado Giaquinto: Religion Protected by Spain.    

The large double stairway of seventy steps goes up to a landing with a large statue of Charles IV. Everything is covered in ornate decoration and frescoes. It’s the most Baroque palace I’ve ever seen. It’s hard to describe. The Palace is majestic and regal.

We pass the Royal Library and the Royal Pharmacy. The Royal Armory still has armor that was worn by emperors. Charles V and Philip II. Napoleon took much of the armor and sent it to France.

The Painting Gallery features the “Head of John the Baptist” by Caravaggio and “Virgin with Child” by Luis Morales. There are works by Velázquez and Goya.

The Chinoiserie or Smoking room is covered with black lacquer and Asian ornamentation from floor to ceiling. 

Photos were allowed in the entrance, The Grand Staircase and a few of the first  rooms. Then there was a definite checkpoint with a large sign. NO FOTOS! 

It really is enforced. People tried to sneak photos with their cell phones. Some pretend that, “They didn’t know.” The staff was relentless. If people didn’t cooperate they were threatened with ejection. It was pretty clear that it wasn’t a bluff.

King Charles III’s apartments are on the first floor. The Halberdier’s Room has another fresco by Tiepolo. There are two paintings by Luca Giordano.

This is becoming a list, but the imperial hits just kept coming. The Hall of Columns had a ceiling fresco by Giaquinto: The Sun Before Which All the Forces of Nature Awaken and Rejoice. 

The Throne Hall had a ceiling painted by Tiepolo: Apotheosis of the Spanish Monarchy. Charles III’s Anteroom had a fresco by A.R. Mengs: The  Apotheosis of Trajan. The Conversation Room had another ceiing fresco by Mengs: The Apotheosis of Hercules. There were four royal portraits by Goya. 

The Gasparini Room led to The Queen’s Apartments and a banqueting Hall that held three ceiling frescoes: Dawn in her Chariot by Mengs. Christopher Columbus Offering the New World to the Catholic Monarchs by Alejandro González Velázquez. Boabdil Giving the Keys to the Catholic Monarchs by Subias.

The Apartments of Infante Luis has The Stradivarius Room and The Musical Instruments Room. Then came The Crown Room.  

Every ceiling had a fresco. Most were done by one of the Venetian masters. It reminded me of Venice. How did Titian and Tiepolo find the time to do so many of these large frescoes. Did their “students” do most of the brushwork? 

The nearby Alumenda Cathedral was started in 1879. It was built on the site of Madrid’s first mosque. Work stopped during the  Spanish Civil War. It was completed and consecrated in 1993. It’s Baroque exterior makes it look older. The Romanesque crypt was opened in 1911. There’s a museum inside that shows the history of the Catholic Church. It has effigies of the city’s patron saints: the Virgin Mary of Alumenda and San Isidro Labrador. 

Headed back to the hotel. I wasn’t really lost, but I wanted to make sure I was heading in the right direction. I needed shaving cream and entered a Pharmacia. An old woman was at the counter, and another woman just seemed to be hanging out. The proprietor quickly pointed out the shaving cream on a shelf. 

I did have a pretty good idea of what direction the hotel was in. I knew I could find my hotel from the Opera House. I also knew the Opera House wasn’t that far away, but I asked anyway, “Where is the Opera House?” They shook their heads. They didn’t understand English. 

How different can the word “opera” be in Spanish? “Opera, you know, singing,” I pretended to sing. They looked at me like I was crazy. I paid for the shaving cream. I asked a guy in a suit and tie for directions. He pointed the way immediately. Then I saw the sign.

There were more homeless in the Opera House area. Cardboard was set out for sleeping spots along the buildings. There weren’t as many as in San Francisco.

Would five hours in Toledo be enough? I knew it was a stupid question. This was another tour I was looking forward to. I was worried about finding the departure point. I couldn’t find The Plaza Riales on the map I got from the hotel. I was trying to avoid using the phone for things like this, but I got the Google map on my phone. I still couldn’t find it. 

Parts of Madrid were modern. Much of it had to be rebuilt after the Spanish Civil War. Madrid wasn’t as medieval as Granada or Seville, but I still got confused sometimes.  

I did try to find the Plaza Riales on my own. I knew it wasn’t that far from the hotel. I went into a cafe/restaurant and showed them the address on my voucher. They never heard of the place. That was concerning.

There was a taxi stand right outside and I got in the first cab in line. I showed the driver the tour voucher. He said, “It’s just a four minute walk.” I’d heard, “It’s just minutes away!” before. It was never minutes away. One wrong turn and I would be lost. I have time, but I know I’m not “four minutes” away. “Take me there. I will pay you.” I should take taxis more anyway. I’ll save the legs for Toledo.

There is a bakery across the street from Plaza Riales. Little old ladies are running it. I have a baccala pastry for breakfast. What a country! I could go on an all cod diet here. The area near the Plaza looks like another haven for the homeless. Cardboard is spread out like in the Opera House area. 

The “Toledo: City of Three Cultures tour” was scheduled for five hours, from 3 p.m to 8 p.m. The whole city of Toledo is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Toledo is called “a living museum.” Sylvia will be our tour guide. She’s middle aged and seems nice, but a bit stressed out.   

Toledo is 64 kilometers away. Almost 40 miles. It will take us an hour on the bus to get there. We pass through a more industrial part of Madrid. Even this looks interesting to me. It’s the “real” Spain and a rare look outside of the tourist bubble. I see another International Paper facility. It’s a cloudy day with big cumulus clouds. It might rain. I see some familiar graffiti: 4:20. I’ll bet that group of Mill Valley stoners never imagined their secret code would be spread across the globe. 

It was a great ride up into the mountains. This really is La Mancha, the land of Don Quixote. When we got near Toledo we stopped at an overlook for a photo op. The mountains were all around us. The Tagus River was far below us. 

The Tagus River creates a deep gorge. We could see Toledo on the other side of it. The city was spread out on the mountain over the river. It looked like a giant castle out of a fairy tale. I hadn’t imagined how spectacular and dramatic Toledo would be.  

As we approach we get a closer look at the city spread across the rest of the hill. We can make out some of the buildings and the pattern of the medieval streets. Toledo’s fortress Alcázar looms over everything. 

Toledo is in the center of Spain. This helped make it the “Imperial City” even before the court of Charles V was here. It was the capital of the Visigoths.   

Toledo is the spiritual center of Spain. Three religions coexisted here for centuries. Tolerance was usually good for business. They didn’t waste time and resources killing each other here. Maybe it was because it was more remote.

Toledo’s spot on the river made it a crucial and strategic spot. The Romans recognized its strategic importance. Toledo followed the usual Spanish chronology. It was the Visigoths capital. Then the Arabs. Many battles were fought for it. It was the site of siege. 

Toledo became a great center of learning. The Catholic Church held many ecumenical councils in Toledo. The Bishops in Toledo became very powerful in the Catholic Church. Toledo became “the holiest city” in the Catholic Church.  

Arab and Berber forces took Toledo in 711. Large Arab libraries preserved the knowledge of the ancient world. Toledo’s spiritual importance was recognized by the Arabs. They did not destroy the buildings of Toledo.  

The Arabs and Berbers moved their capital to Seville and then Cordoba. This was meant to punish Toledo and show the conqueror’s power. The Muslims did allow some Catholic churches to remain, but they put up a mosque at the site of today’s Cathedral. It was another reminder of Muslim rule.

Toledo had a reputation for tolerance, but sometimes the people rose up and festering hatred exploded. Jews were tolerated by Arabs, but persecuted by Christians after the Reconquista. 

Charles I had his court in Toledo, but in 1561 the Spanish court was moved to Madrid. This hit Toledo hard and it suffered an economic decline. This preserved the culture and architecture of the city. It became a city frozen in time.

Some damage was done during the Spanish Civil War, but most of the bombing was aimed at the Alcázar. 

The bus drops us off. The cumulus clouds look less threatening. We’ll probably get a break from the rain. Sylvia pulls out an umbrella for protection against the sun. Before we start Sylvia gives us some fun facts and history. The population of Toledo is 86,000. 11,000 live inside the walls of the city.

Maybe I misunderstood Sylvia, but I thought I heard her say that in the past there were no hotels in Toledo. Eventually there were enough complaints that hotels were allowed. 

Sylvia said that there was damage to Toledo during the Spanish Civll War, especially the Alcazar. Toledo didn’t have much military value in the modern world, but Franco’s victory here was very symbolic. There was a long siege. The fighting must have been doubly dramatic in this scenic area. Franco’s forces held on and it was a huge propaganda victory. It’s hard to imagine a modern war being waged here with bombers flying. 

The city is far above us, but there are escalators to take us up. It would have been a long climb. There are wisecracks about how ingenious they were to have escalators back then. 

Toledo is more of an academic capital now. It’s the home of Universidad de Castilla La Mancha Ca.

We get off the escalator, but there’s still a bit of a climb up stone streets. We enter through the Sol Gate. Sylvia explains that buildings were built first at the top, close to the protection of the Alcazar. The buildings and streets are built in layers from the top.   

We haven’t gone far when I see the sign: “Templaries Museo.” A Templar Museum! I know I won’t have time to see this. The Templars in Toledo! It might be a tourist trap, but it’s a Templar tourist trap!  

 

As we walk, Sylvia points out notable buildings. The Museo de los Concilios (Museum of Visigothic Councils and Culture) had a large wooden door under an arch with a small entrance. The church of De Santa Leocadia is dedicated to a female martyr. We were surrounded by towers and turrets.   

The Plaza de Zocodover is the center of the city. Festivals and a market are held here. “It’s a lively meeting place.” We pass the Cathedral. 

The Primate Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo was built in the 13th century. A member of the tour complained that we weren’t going inside the Cathedral. The tour description had said “an outside view of the Cathedral,” but I had to wonder. How could they bring us up here and not at least let us walk through the Cathedral? It didn’t make sense. Sylvia said that it was in the description of the tour, and that was true, but it was still frustrating. One less Cathedral for me. I’ll have to see it next time I’m in town. 

We do enter the Church of St. Tome. The Mudéjar style bell tower is ninety meters high. Three hundred feet. It was built on the site of a mosque that goes back to the 11th century. When Toledo was retaken by the Christians few buildings were damaged, so it was easy to convert mosques.  

St. Tome deteriorated over the years. It was rebuilt by a wealthy patron, Gonzalo Ruiz de Toledo, Lord of Orgaz, in the 14th century. Sylvia says that “You will see netting to catch falling debris.” She assures us it’s safe inside the church.     

The main attraction here is El Greco’s painting, the El Entierro del se or de Orgaz. (The Internment of Count Orgaz.) The Count of Orgaz was so pious that St. Stephen and Augustine of Hippo appeared at his burial. The painting had been inside the church, but was moved to an area near the entrance.  

We enter the Synagogue of Santa Maria la Blanca. It’s believed to be the oldest synagogue building in Europe still standing. It’s a symbol of how the three cultures coexisted. The architecture is Mudéjar with some Almohad influence. Brick and pillars were used instead of the usual stone columns of a Christian church. The interior is bright and unique. 

Toledo was not always a city of tolerance. A pogrom in the 1300s nearly wiped out all Jews living in Toledo. The synagogue was converted to a Christian church, but the original architecture was left alone. 

Santa Maria la Blanca is owned by the Catholic Church. There are no religious services in the building. It is now a museum. There is a move to make it a synagogue again, but the Catholic Church has not really responded. Seeing this made up for not being able to go inside the Cathedral.

  The Mosque of El Cristo de la Luz is believed to be in the same “state” as when it was built. It’s a small building compared to the other churches. The first mass was held here after the Reconquista. 

 

Toledo has its own cuisine that is heavy on wild game, especially partridges and suckling pig. It’s famous for its Manchego cheese and marzipan. 

“Metal-working” is the main industry. Since Roman times Toledo had been famous for its bladed weapons. A combination of the craftmanship of the Damascene method and the local steel made Toledo’s weapons highly prized. They were called “the best in Europe." Weapons were more than a decoration back then. A man sometimes had to depend on his sword.

We took a slow walk to meet our bus on the other side of a bridge, the Puerta de San Martin. The bridge is an awesome sight that gets a bit lost in the huge gorge. This had been the entrance for pilgrims. We walked across the bridge and enjoyed a great view of the river and the dam below.        

There was the opportunity to ride a string line across the Tagus River. It looked exciting, but I passed. The carnival thrill ride looked a little out of place in these surroundings. 

After a short bus ride, we stopped at the Artesanía Toledana. We take a tour of a workshop where the famous Damascene bladed weapons are being made. We will see “incrustation of precious metals in steel.” Craftsman sat at wooden tables. Each work spot had a window with a view of the river. They were tapping precious stones into the handles of knives. It was a display of digital dexterity and patience. This was a place for precision and accuracy. 

There was a large store for souvenirs. You could outfit a medieval army in here or take home a piece of Toledo’s history. There were miniature replicas of swords and armor. You can get a whole suit of armor shipped home! And of course there was plenty of jewelry.

I expected another “once in a lifetime” experience in Toledo. And I got it. On the bus ride home strands of cotton swirled in the wind. We passed a Friday night football game. It looked like quite an exciting local event. I couldn’t help but think of the legendary announcer of Oakland’s professional teams, Bill King. His signature phrase was:  “Holy Toledo!”  

The tour ended near the Royal Palace and the Aluyemena Almudena Cathedral. It’s where I had started the day. The Cathedral was closed, but I followed the signs to the crypt, and it was still open. How could I pass on a chance to see a crypt? 

Signs said that there was a service and asked visitors to be respectful. I’m pretty sure it was a novena. The crypt is older than the Cathedral. The white stone columns made it look older to me. The Neo-Romanesque Crypt houses a 16th century image of the Almudena Virgin. Back outside I saw the remains of the old Muslim wall.  

Went back to the hotel for a rest. It had been quite a day. My last night in Madrid and it was time for a splurge. I wanted a restaurant with a view of the Ópera Plaza. I’d get a seat outside and do some people watching. The waiter got me a good corner table with a view of the square. The place did look touristy. I might be taking a chance on the food. It might be more expensive, but figured it was worth the view of the plaza. I ordered the Grilled Sea Bass. The waiter congratulated me on my excellent selection.   

  A couple came in and sat at a table near me. They looked in their sixties and  talked to each other in English. That surprised me. They looked Russian.   

The man sits down but the woman insists they switch seats. The waiter comes out and recognizes them. They’re visiting, but this restaurant has become their favorite place. I’m feeling more confident about the food. These two look like experienced travelers.  

Three older Australian couples come in. The women wonder if there’s enough room. The waiter scrambles to set up a larger table for them. He doesn’t want to let this group slip away. The Australians seem a bit nervous about the place, especially the menu. They’re right next to the couple and one asks the woman, “Do you speak English?” 

“I speak five languages including Russian! Everything is good! We ate here last night.” She explains the menu and how to order. The Australians settle in. 

I watched the plaza scene. It wasn’t as exciting as the Plaza Mayor, but people were strolling around. The Opera House was lit up at the other end of the Plaza. The huge figure of a sinister looking Faust loomed over the plaza. It advertised a production that would be opening soon.

The waiter put on a good show. He greeted people on the street, but he didn’t try to drag them in. Customers who had been in before were thanking him. I was feeling more confident about the food, and it was definitely worth the splurge. The waiter brought me a glass of wine on the house. Then a small dessert for free. This place was all right. 

I walked around the plaza and checked out the scenes of plaza life. People stroll around or get a seat and just hang out. 

On the way back to the hotel I stopped in the bar next to the restaurant. I could sense a waiter eyeing me suspiciously. Couldn’t blame him really. I was looking pretty  ragged. Maybe I should have got a hair cut before I left. I hadn’t realized the bar was connected to the restaurant I had ate at. My waiter from dinner recognized me. He made a show of coming over with a bottle and filling my wine glass. It was the best greeting I had gotten for a while outside of North Beach! You’re not supposed to tip at a tapas bar, but I did.   

Madrid is a big, capital city. “You can’t see everything,” and it’s especially true here. I made it to The Prado, but I missed the Museo Thyssen and the Archaeological Museum. The Escorial was a short day trip away. So many museums, so little time. I had only spent five hours in Toledo. What would it be like to spend a night there? I knew I had just scratched the surface here in Madrid and Toledo.